Streams and waterfalls, towering pines, herby hedgerows and wildflowers in surreal colours: half-an-hour's walk from our home off Lanjaron's busiest street is the Parque Natural Sierra Nevada, and Fred and I have become walking testaments to its beauty.
Our old Beardie hung up his hiking boots some time ago (I mean Macduff. Fred is not an old Beardie, though admittedly he is in his 60's and has a beard). But Lola is in spaniel heaven, wading streams and fording oceans of long grass. She comes up smelling one day of rosemary, the next of goat droppings.
We can't find our favourite route on any of the maps we have. But we're keen to share with you....so here goes:
You can access this route two ways:
Head out of Lanjarón towards Granada, past the Balneario. Just before the Frenaso restaurant, turn right. Stay on the main track uphill.
About five to ten minutes later at a fork, you'll see a cement and tile sign indicating Escorta to the left and Tello to the right. Go left and ever upwards and you'll eventually come to a high meadow with poetry-inspiring views.
Alternatively, take the Tello road for another five minutes, until you come to a sign indicating the Sendero Sulayr (some 12 kilometres away) and another tile sign to Tello (left) and Almendral (right).
Go right here on what we call the North Circular, up past a wrecked blue Jeep. At the end of the dirt track you'll see an ancient stone path heading downwards off to the right. It looks like a streambed - and probably is in wet weather. But it is worth the careful descent, laced with waterfalls and enamelled with wildflowers. One species looks like a deep lilac menorah candlestick (try to imagine this). Can anyone tell me what it is?
Or take the Sulayr/Tello road which rises gently uphill into the Parque Natural, taking in pine forest, waterfalls and this wet winter's legacy, an amazing abundance of wildflowers. Keep following signs for Tellos and you're on the right track. This road carries on to the spectacular 300km Sendero de Gran Recorrido Sulayr which circles the highest peaks of the Sierra Nevada (if you have two weeks to spare!). At long-established Spanish Highs, outdoor expert Richard and his team organise Sulayr walking trips to suit your schedule, as well as trekking, mountaineering and skiing.
We made it as far as the Instituto de Miel, with its long avenue of hives. That was a gentle uphill walk of about an hour and a half door to hive (with a picnic stop). There are several other tracks you can turn off and explore. A few are dead ends, but all are breathtaking. The air gets sweeter and softer the farther you go. And go soon, before it gets too hot!
Thankfully, there are several accurate maps and guides to this part of the Alpujarras. Hunt down Editorial Alpina's Sierra Nevada, La Alpujarra (1:40,000) and Editorial Penibética's Sierra Nevada (1:50,000) Walking, skiing and biking routes are described, both Spanish and English booklets are available.
For more great Alpujarran routes by a real expert, check out 34 Alpujarras Walks by Charles Davis. (Discovery Walking Guides).
And for
Lots of other wonderful things grow in Lanjarón - not least Sue and Pete's self-sufficiency 'School', (see Sue's website) Sue, an eminently qualified environmentalist and self-sufficiency expert, will be holding a series of one-day Herb Walks/Cooking with Herbs experiences through the early summer. We will be going on one and report back soon.
Happy hunting!
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