It's happened to most of us; you set out to explore a new town or city - let's say it's in southern Spain - and a couple of hours later you're as hungry as a horse, as thirsty as an August acequia waiting its turn on the watering rota. You're looking for that elusive, magical bar that is going to make your day or evening special, the one you'll still be do-you-remembering in ten years' time.
But after half-an-hour of checking out obsolete guidebook recommendations, or sidestepping scowling students with their eyes full of hope and their hands full of flimsy flyers, you're no nearer to finding the real tapas thing. You end up in a dive with really bad tiles, faux-rustic furniture and three identical old men sipping their cervezas at the bar while they watch writhing pop tarts on the giant flat-screen TV. You are bored, fed up and want to beat your partner to death with the plywood jamon york y queso plastico bocadilla served with an extra helping of indifference by the owner's cousin's son.
It doesn't have to be like this. After 12 years in the city, Gayle Mackie is the queen of Granada Tapas Tours, and she's graciously ready to share her insider knowledge with you. Together with her colleague, Lecrin Valley-based writer and publisher Vernon Grant, Gayle has researched and co-written Granada Tapas Tours, a handy pocket-sized guide to Granada region's 100 top tapas bars.
We met Gayle a couple of weeks ago for a lunchtime mini-tour. She looks Spanish, sounds Scottish, and is more bubbly than a bottle of cava - delightful company. We started at Corrala del Carbon in c/Mariana Pineda. It's got a pleasant old-world feel, tapas is generous if meatily conventional, and it boasts a handsome Whiskey Bar.
Our tour ended at Saint Germain, (c/Postigo Velutti) simply because it was too good to leave. Callos, a man-food stew of tripe, chorizo and chickpeas in a spicy sauce, got Fred's vote. As did a wide selection of primarily Spanish wines in a laid-back atmosphere with good music.
We also love Casa de Vinos in c/Monjas del Carmen, with over 100 wines to choose from, many by the glass. And their little rounds of goats' cheese on mini-toasts with onion and Pedro Ximenes jam...are GOOD! Difficult to find but Gayle knows how. And there's El Mentidero, at c/Piedra Santa 15, one of the new generation of arty, modern bars with friendly service. (see main photo).
As days lengthen and get warmer, food-lovers' thoughts naturally turn to tapas tours of Granada. Gayle will be happy to help you through this rite of spring. Let us know if you go, and tell us about your favourite tapas experience.
And don't forget, we're offering you the opportunity to create your very own Spanish taste experience with our Mediterranean Cookery Workshops planned for March 17-24 here at Los Piedaos.
¡buen provecho!
yes please, is there a map?
Posted by: Sohelenbell | February 21, 2011 at 08:47 PM