No, not the rather lacklustre political jockeying of Spain's PP and PSOE candidates (dubbed the 'Race of the Number Twos' by racy regional rag The Olive Press). But the much more important callos conflicts to be experienced in two of Granada's finer tapas bars even as the PP's Mariano Rajoy takes up the premiership.
Make no mistake, callos or tripe is Man Food. The English translation of the Wikipedia page gets straight to the point. Guts. It's the kind of stewy chunky thing you'll find steaming in a battered pot over a two ring hob in a campesino kitchen on a chilly winter day. But just as likely to be served in a white tablecloth restaurant in the yuppier parts of Madrid, the city that claims a special affinity to the dish.
Fred is a Man, so he loves this stuff. But tonight he's a Perplexed Man. He's pondering the purist version of callos served up at Bar El Mercado today - suitably savoury and farmyard-y, certainly, but sternly presented with just a few beans in its innocent beige gravy. He remembers the more playful version he ate a few weeks ago at Granada's groovy Bar St. Germain. It sported chickpeas and - wait for it - red hot chilli flecks. And his heart (and stomach) are more inclined to this cheeky newcomer. (Maybe better not to mention his heart and stomach in this context).
I think someone should find out immediately how Mr. Rajoy concocts his callos. If he messes with the original recipe, he might have other pesky innovations up his sleeve. But if he likes his offal without waffle, then he's a man of the people and will lead Spain back to solvency through austerity.
Do you have a favourite callos recipe? And what goes in yours?



Hi Leftbanker, thanks for your comments. Yup, callos is right up there (down there?) with oysters for me. And oysters are like The Beatles - everyone goes mad for them but when you really think about them...
Anyway, happy eating, I'll try and find a new foodstuff to post about soon. All the best, Arpi
Posted by: Arpi Shively | December 12, 2011 at 09:25 PM
Hi Steve, I know, long time - but what with studies and other blogs I write, other jobs...I'll try to be more regular in future. Talking of which, your callos experiences sound dreadful!
Sorry you didn't find the Head Camel (affectionate joke, Gym) in. I should say that these days she likes to make an appointment to be there. (+34) 669 741 059 is the number. Hope you get back here sometime! All the best, Arpi
Posted by: Arpi Shively | December 12, 2011 at 09:22 PM
May to November. I'm a patient blogger. Love spain - spent a few weeks in Niguelas last year. Found your friend's Camel Shop (can't remember the correct name)through your blog. Visited it twice but no one home either time. Your blog keeps me remembering a special place.
My father was a tripe and offal MAN (italian heritage/country boy. Mum wasn't Spanish (or Italian) unfortunately so it was not a taste treat.Boiled and served in a white sauce. Never had it since.
Posted by: Steve Capelin | December 11, 2011 at 11:52 PM
My butcher (with whom I have a better relationship than I do with most of the members of my immediate family) sells a tripe casserole, tureen style, which I buy from time to time. My Spanish girlfriend bought it for me the first time (she would never touch the stuff) because she just liked to watch me eat. It was like I was a circus freak called “John, the amazing carnivore” and for 1€ children could poke me with a stick through my cage. There are many foods I eat simply out of tradition (or machismo?). Oysters were a ritual when I lived on both the east and west coasts of America. I can’t really say if I like them or not but I like the idea of eating them for some strange reason. I’d say the same thing about callos.
Posted by: Leftbanker | November 30, 2011 at 10:05 PM
Hi Maureen, thanks for your reply, hope you're finding Spain tastier these days? All the best, Arpi
Posted by: Arpi Shively | November 26, 2011 at 08:51 PM
Eeeeeuuuuuy! Tripe is just offal! (Sorry). I can´t stand the smell of it, though I´m quite happy to let people love it. I imagine the more playful the better, and it is of national interest to know what is the stripe of Rajoy´s tripe! Great article, lots of wit.
Posted by: Maureen Dolan | November 25, 2011 at 03:26 PM